In the heart of the Alsace wine region lies a picturesque town steeped in history, legends and charm – Colmar. Often overlooked in favour of more famous French cities, Colmar is a treasure trove of medieval architecture, vibrant culture and mysterious stories that attract both historians and tourists alike.
This picturesque town is not just a destination, but an experience shaped by centuries of intrigue and folklore.
A tapestry of time: Colmar’s historical traces – Colmar’s history dates back to the 9th century, making it one of the oldest towns in Alsace. Its roots can be traced back to a Carolingian refuge known as the ‘Columbarium’, meaning ‘dovecote’. The town flourished under successive rulers, from the Holy Roman Empire to French sovereignty, each leaving a distinct mark on its development.
One of the defining moments in Colmar’s history occurred in the 13th century when the city was declared a free imperial city by Emperor Frederick II. This newfound independence fostered economic growth and transformed Colmar into a bustling commercial hub.
The architectural splendour that can be seen today in landmarks such as the Maison Pfister and the Koïfhus (former customs house) dates back to this heyday.
Legends woven into the history of Colmar – History alone does not capture the essence of Colmar. The city is rich in legends that add an extra mystical touch to its already enchanting aura. One of these legends revolves around the famous House of Heads. Decorated with 111 grotesque masks, this Renaissance building is a testament to Colmar’s unique artistic heritage. Locals say that the masks come to life at midnight, whispering secrets of the past and predicting the future – a story that sends a thrill of excitement through night-time strollers.
Another fascinating legend is that of the Schwendi Fountain in the heart of Colmar. The bronze statue on the fountain depicts Lazare de Schwendi, a 16th-century military leader who is said to have brought Tokaj vines from Hungary to Alsace. While the historical accuracy of this story remains disputed, the legend persists and underscores Colmar’s deep-rooted connection to winegrowing.
The mystery of the Isenheim Altarpiece – Art lovers cannot talk about Colmar without mentioning the Isenheim Altarpiece, which can be seen in the Unterlinden Museum. Created by Matthias Grünewald in the early 16th century, this masterpiece is known for its vivid depiction of religious scenes, including the crucifixion and resurrection of Christ. The altarpiece was originally created for the monastery of St. Anthony in Isenheim, where monks treated patients suffering from ergotism, also known as St. Anthony’s fire.
The harrowing scenes depicted on the altar were intended to comfort those affected by reflecting their torment and offering a glimpse of divine salvation. Modern scholars continue to attempt to unravel the mysteries behind Grünewald’s symbolism and techniques, making the altarpiece an object of endless academic fascination.
From the ashes: the resilience of Colmar – Colmar’s strategic location has made it a battleground over the centuries, particularly during the Franco-Prussian War and the two world wars. Despite the destruction, the city’s resilience has been demonstrated time and again. The liberation of Colmar in 1945 marked the end of the region’s ongoing conflicts, a victory immortalised in local lore and annual commemorations.
Post-war restoration work has carefully preserved Colmar’s historical integrity while integrating modern amenities. Today, the city seamlessly blends the old with the new, offering a unique journey through time.
Wine and merriment: life in Colmar – In addition to its historical and cultural significance, Colmar is also known for its wine. The Alsace Wine Route, one of the oldest wine routes in France, winds its way through the city, offering ample opportunity to enjoy world-class wines. Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris are just a few of the delights that await wine lovers.
Every August, Colmar hosts the Foire aux Vins d’Alsace (Alsace Wine Fair), a ten-day spectacle featuring wine tastings, concerts and culinary delights. This event attracts thousands of visitors from all over the world and underscores Colmar’s role as a cornerstone of Alsatian culture.
Seasonal splendour: A year-round destination – Colmar’s appeal transcends the seasons. In spring and summer, the city blossoms with colourful floral arrangements that further enhance the half-timbered houses and cobbled streets. The terrace cafés are filled with guests, and the scent of freshly baked Gugelhupf cake fills the air.
Autumn brings a different kind of magic, when the vineyards cover the surrounding hills in shades of gold and amber. The harvest festival in October celebrates the bounty of the land with parades, music and traditional dances.
Winter transforms Colmar into a fairy tale. The city’s Christmas markets are among the most beautiful in Europe, with wooden chalets offering handicrafts, mulled wine and festive treats. Illuminated by twinkling lights, Colmar radiates a warmth that dispels the winter chill.
Architectural marvels: A feast for the eyes – A stroll through Colmar is like leafing through an architectural anthology. The Église Saint-Martin, a prime example of Gothic craftsmanship, dominates the city centre with its imposing structure and filigree details. The Maison des Têtes, on the other hand, with its richly decorated façade and whimsical sculptures, is an example of Renaissance art.
Little Venice, or La Petite Venise, is perhaps the most photographed part of Colmar. Characterised by its canal-side houses and flower-adorned bridges, this idyllic neighbourhood offers a picturesque glimpse into the charming essence of Alsace.
A preserved heritage – The inhabitants of Colmar are very proud of their city’s heritage. Local initiatives focus on preserving historical sites while promoting sustainable tourism. Guided tours often include anecdotes passed down through generations, adding a personal touch to Colmar’s rich history.
In recent years, the city has also embraced digital technologies to enhance the visitor experience. Virtual tours and interactive displays offer deeper insights into Colmar’s past, ensuring that its stories will continue to captivate future generations.
The timeless appeal of Colmar – Colmar may be small, but it has an extraordinary amount to offer in terms of culture, history and charm. From its historic past and fascinating legends to its vibrant present, Colmar invites you to explore and marvel. It is a living museum, a canvas of human resilience, creativity and joy.
For those willing to venture off the beaten track, Colmar offers an unforgettable journey into the heart of Alsace – a journey marked by beauty, mystery and timeless charm.
